Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Happy Halloween!!


Happy Halloween! We had a fun evening! Rachel and her friend Katie helped carve pumpkins and then they had a few friends over to watch movies.  The dress code was costume by onesie.


I also made some fun Halloween food. Stuffed jack-o-lantern peppers and spider deviled eggs.



And I was excited, I think we had more trick or treaters than ever. Maybe 30!

Sunday, October 28, 2018

Stammtisch


Steve and his friends like to participate in the German tradition of Stammtisch. This is an informal gathering on a regular basis. They try to get out together ever one or two months. Steve organized one this morning at his favorite spot - Andechs Monastery. They look like they are having a good time!

Saturday, October 27, 2018

Morocco


We had a fascinating and relaxing trip to Morocco. We spent the first two days in Marrakech and the Ourika Valley. We had guides both days, definitely the easiest way to tour around Africa. We arrived very late so our first impression was a dark, crazy party place with very twisty places.  We stayed at a Riad (hotel) in the Old Medina and were amazed that once we stepped inside it was completely peaceful.

Our first day we spent in the Ourika Valley. It is beautiful.


We stopped at a Berber market on the way. This is really something to see.  These markets travel from town to town and provide all the services people might need.  They sell food, there is a barber and sometimes in the same place a dentist, also a doctor to treat broken bones.  Also, mostly only men do the shopping. Our guide told us that if you see women there they are old or divorced. It really was all men and little boys.


Our next stop was an Argan market. It was totally a tourist trap but it was interesting to watch the old women working through the different steps of opening the shells to get the kernels and then mashing them into a paste. And yes we got suckered into lotion and oil and a lovely tea...

This lady was my favorite
Near the market was a great wooden bridge - Rachel had her own Indiana Jones moment!


Next we met up with another guide Hussein who was going to take us up through the waterfalls of the Ourika Valley. He was easily 70 years old but climbed like a mountain goat. On the way to the waterfalls we walked through the little town and of course some shops. We loved that all along the little river flowing through there were little places to eat along the water's edge.

Parking Lot!
We really enjoyed climbing the waterfalls and Hussein taught us along the way. All of our guides talked to us about how progressive the king is; while a man can still have FOUR wives, wife number one must approve number two then they both must approve number three...  We asked Hussein how many wives he had and his answer was, "Excuse me ma'am, I prefer to only have one problem so I only have one wife".



Hussein with Missy & Rachel

"Natural Refrigerator" - a hose from the river is just spraying water over the bottles
Where you see the covered umbrellas below is where we had lunch. We had a traditional beef tangine. It's basically a stew cooked all day long.



How the tangine is cooked.
When we returned to the Riad, Rachel and I had a traditional Hammam. A deep body washing and scrub. It was very personal but very relaxing. That evening we had dinner on the roof of our Riad. It was delicious and so peaceful. We had kefta which we definitely enjoyed. We all loved the simplicity of orange slices with cinnamon for dessert.

Our Riad was so beautiful and peaceful but if you looked ver the wall of the rooftop, the building next door was not the same.



Breakfast each morning was on the terrace in the center of the Riad. We enjoyed trying the different traditional food. Cakes and pancakes and breads.


Our second day was spent tour Marrakech. It's an interesting city and we were glad to have a guide to allow us to maximize what we saw. Youssef was excellent, he is also a teacher. We really enjoyed spending the day with him.

First stop was the Majorelle gardens. They were very pretty and have a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent inside because he built them.



Next we went to the Koutoubia Mosque and walked all around it. Men and women do pray together in it but in separate areas. In smaller mosques they would t even go in together.


Next we went into the Kasbah and to see the Saadian tombs. They were pretty but not as amazing as we might have hoped.  Palais Bahia followed, like the palaces in southern Spain it’s not furnished anymore but you can see the elaborate tile work and the amazing size. Youssef really stressed that the way kings used to live with their 24 mistresses was not the proper way of Islam. He was very sure to tell us how the Sunni Muslims were good and how much the current king has done for Morocco. He’s apparently very popular. It’s also interesting that when the king is in town Marrakech is cleaner, there are more police and flags fly everywhere. 


After lunch of delicious kebabs we toured the souk time. It is a crazy and intense place. I’m glad we had a guide. Youssef showed us the community ovens where over  200 loaves of bread are baking at once. He apparently can keep track of which bread belongs to which family or restaurant. Amazing.

We also visited where the man who tends the fires for the one of the souks local Hammams work, he also burns the hair off goat heads so the head can be peeled and the skin eaten. Ewwwwww. Fresh goat heads sitting on the step. There were cool places where they were much of it seems the same throughout. We did go by a place stacked and filled with junk. I wish we could have taken a picture it was filled from top to bottom. Apparently the guy can find any tool in it. Hard to believe. 



Another place within the Souk is where families bring their tangine pots to cook all day 


After a tour was finished we relaxed ffor awhile and then walked to la Madison Arabic for dinner. On the way we came to a cordoned off street. The king was going to be driving by so we waited to see him. His caravan literally flew by but the crowd was so excited, they didn't care that they couldn't actually see him. The man next to us was so excited, he loves the king!


Dinner was delicious, we tried tangia tonight and we all liked it better than tangine.


The next day we met up with friends and headed to a resort on the coast. Mazagan is worth the splurge. This place is beautiful and has so many things to do. And the golf course if fantastic. We enjoyed four wonderful days of relaxing. We had met two sets of friends there, so it was nice to meet up with them for meals or at the beach for walk or drink. We played golf a few times, enjoyed the spa, and played a great round a paintball.




Yes! The moms played too!
Jasmin, Missy & Luana





Our friend Luana had some fun with Rachel on the beach!


Our last monring we convinced Rachel to beach walk with us. Such a pretty spot.



The Buddha Bar was a particularly great place. One day we relaxed in the beach chairs, another we hung out in the bar and played cards. Another night we ended up there for drinks after dinner.


The food was amazing at the resort. Both the buffet that was part of the half-board package because it had so many options and the different restaurants. Our last night we ate at the steak restaurant and no one was disappointed!



The kids are ready to go home!
It was a great trip!


Friday, October 12, 2018

Budapest

Parliament
The bonus of traveling to watch Rachel play in a soccer tournament was we got to visit the city of Budapest. It is amazing and so beautiful. If you ever go, my number one recommendation is to take an evening river cruise. You will not regret it.  We had three half days, to maximize what we saw we spent two with a lovely tour guide and one on our own.

The first day we were on foot traveling throughout the Pest side of the city and then eventually over to the Buda side. We explored the beautiful Matthias church that has been recently renovated and the pristine Fisherman's Bastion. 


Inside Matthias Church
Fisherman's Bastion
View from Fisherman's Bastion
Parliament
View over Buda and the Basilica
Besides seeing more than you could on your own, the second benefit of a guide is photos!


As we walked through the palace area, the cavalry was on parade.


Afterwards we walked over to the Pest side to see the Basilica. We were also going to see the preserved hand of St Istavan but since Mass was in progress. No luck. The Basilica is beautiful both inside and out.


 Our second day after Rachel's games were finished we were on our own. We were on the Buda side and first headed to the large indoor market, but it was chaos as they were near closing for the day. We walked through the center of town and then took the metro to the Szechenyi Baths. The metro was so charming. Apparently Walt Disney based some of his train stations on the train stations of Budapest, the tile work and design were so intricate and made you feel like you had gone back in time.

Once we got to our stop we luckily found a langos stand. This is a traditional Budapest snack - a large deep fried dough, shaped a little like a pizza. We had a traditional one with garlic sauce and cheese, it was delicious!  Then we went to the Baths. These are thermal baths fed by natural springs that hover around 75F. We relaxed in the one you see below, it's supposed to make you feel more relaxed. Not sure it did or not, but it was fun to try.  There are several baths all over the complex but we chose not to try them all.

After dinner we took an evening cruise on the Danube. The castle, churches and parliament that line the river are spectacular lit up at night.  Definitely worth braving the cooler weather!




Our last day in Budapest we had half a day before our flight. Before we left for the day I took a run to Margaret Island in the middle of the Danube and made good use of the track they have around the island. How great that there is a 5K path right in the middle of the city.

Our guide utilized a driver to help us see more.   We began our tour by going up Gellert Hill and looking out over the city.



As we came down we took a peek at the Gellert Baths, the oldest in Budapest and then visited the Cave Church. It was so cool inside and I really liked the Polish Eagle on the wall.  This church was closed during most of the communist era. A wall was built in front of the entrance to make sure no one used it.

 I also loved this ancient statue of St Stephen outside.


We moved on to explore the area around Parliament and visit the "Shoes on the Danube". This memorial was created to honor the Jewish people who were killed during WWII.  They would line them up along the river and have them take off their shoes because they were valuable and then they shot them. It's nearly impossible to even imagine.


To lighten the mood our guide took us to the "ruined" bars. These are bars and small food places that have taken over dilapidated buildings and made them into these cool, urban, commune like places. They are very popular and I wish we had more time to just sit and have a drink and people watch. Next time!



As we were ending our tour, we saw this kind of tour group.  Looks like a lot of fun! It was a great three days and we're so glad we made the trip!